An Introduction To Fabrics

Fibres

Natural

• Plant or animal based
• Plant- cotton, flax, ect.
• Animal- wool, silk, ect.

Man-made

• Regenerated or synthetic fibres.
• Regenerated-rayon, viscose, ect.
• Synthetic- nylon, polyester, acrylic, ect.

A fabric is either woven or knitted.

Woven

Two threads warp (vertical) and weft (horizontal) interlaced together. (The grain runs along the Warp).
Plain weave- the simplest form of weave
Twill weave- warp and weft are slightly offset to give a diagonal look.
Satin weave- creates a sheen due to how it is woven.

Plain Weave
Calico
Voile
Ripstop
​Chiffon

Twill Weave
Denim
Tweed
Herringbone
Drill

Satin Weave
Double Faced Satin
Bridal Satin
​Antique Satin

Knitted

Constructed by a series of interlocking loops.

• Warp and weft knitting can be made as flat or tubular.

Weft

• Most common
• Loops run horizontally across.
• Only one thread used

Warp

• Loops interlock vertically
• They are stretchy and don’t ladder.

Image from http://www.bbc.co.uk/schools/gcsebitesize/design/textiles/fabricsrev2.shtml

Cut and Sew- A process used for knitted garments, where patterns are cut out and sewn together much like a woven fabric. (like a t-shirt).

Properties to consider when looking at fabric

• Handle
• Weight
• Drape
• Lustre
• Texture
• Absorption
• Wicking ability

Task- play with the different materials and see how they behave when draped on a ½ scale mannequin and what properties they possess.

Fabric 1- Navy Pinstripe

• Twill weave
• Woven

Fabric 2- check

• Woven
• Twill weave

Fabric 3- navy with white raised dots

• Knitted
• Weft knit
• White thread running along the weft raised in sections and cut to create tufts.

Fabric 4- black and brown ridges

• Knitted
• Weft knit

Fabric 5- grey (stone) linen

• Woven
• Plain weave

Fabric 6- blue

• Woven
• Twill weave

Fabric 7- velvet

• Knitted
• Weft knit