Eleanor McCormick
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Reflective ​Journal

An Introduction To Fabrics

28/1/2018

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Fibres

Natural
  • Plant or animal based
  • Plant- cotton, flax, ect.
  • Animal- wool, silk, ect.
Man-made
  • Regenerated or synthetic fibres.
  • Regenerated-rayon, viscose, ect.
  • Synthetic- nylon, polyester, acrylic, ect.
A fabric is either woven or knitted.
Picture

Woven

Two threads warp (vertical) and weft (horizontal) interlaced together. (The grain runs along the Warp).
Plain weave- the simplest form of weave
Twill weave- warp and weft are slightly offset to give a diagonal look.
Satin weave- creates a sheen due to how it is woven.
Plain Weave
Calico
Voile
Ripstop
​Chiffon
Twill Weave
Denim
Tweed
Herringbone
Drill
Satin Weave
Double Faced Satin
Bridal Satin
​Antique Satin

Knitted

Constructed by a series of interlocking loops.
  • Warp and weft knitting can be made as flat or tubular.
Weft
  • Most common
  • Loops run horizontally across.
  • Only one thread used
Warp
  • Loops interlock vertically
  • They are stretchy and don’t ladder.
Picture
Image from http://www.bbc.co.uk/schools/gcsebitesize/design/textiles/fabricsrev2.shtml
Cut and Sew- A process used for knitted garments, where patterns are cut out and sewn together much like a woven fabric. (like a t-shirt).
Properties to consider when looking at fabric
  • Handle
  • Weight
  • Drape
  • Lustre
  • Texture
  • Absorption
  • Wicking ability
Task- play with the different materials and see how they behave when draped on a ½ scale mannequin and what properties they possess.
Fabric 1- Navy Pinstripe
  • Twill weave
  • Woven
Picture
Fabric 2- check
  • Woven
  • Twill weave
Picture
Fabric 3- navy with white raised dots
  • Knitted
  • Weft knit
  • White thread running along the weft raised in sections and cut to create tufts.
Picture
Fabric 4- black and brown ridges
  • Knitted
  • Weft knit
Picture
Fabric 5- grey (stone) linen
  • Woven
  • Plain weave
Picture
Fabric 6- blue
  • Woven
  • Twill weave
Picture
Fabric 7- velvet
  • Knitted
  • Weft knit
Picture
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BA1b- Week 5

22/1/2018

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Monday

Creative Pattern Cutting
I found today's session quite challenging and hard to visualise, but I asked for help and have everything explained, which has really helped, and I now understand how to transfer style lines on the mannequin onto paper patterns. I will keep working on this so that I can improve.

Tuesday

Music Inspired Creative Pattern Cutting Workshop
​​Today's session was something that I have never done before, we were draping fabric onto the 1/2 scale mannequins to music, we listened to three different genres of music and then we played around with jersey, calico and wadding to created something that we thought visualised what we were listening to. I thought it was really interesting how we all created something very different but there were also quite a few similarities. For example, in the more classical music we used a lot more draping and elegant lines, but for the rock music there were a lot of big bold shapes and a very clear silhouette.
Technical Session
I feel very happy with how my technical sessions are going, especially after today. We were creating the patterns and making cuffs for our shirts. By the end of the session I had attached my cuffs, now all I have left to do is add the collar and hem the shirt. This is the first shirt I have ever made, and I am really pleased with how it is looking, and with all the techniques that I am using to make it.

Thursday

Mentor Day 1
Today was the first day working with my third year. I found it interesting to look through his work and see what he has been getting up to. I am very excited to be able to help with his final collection and all the work that goes behind it.
Editorial Tutorial
I found todays tutorial very helpful as we went over my first draft and picked up on points where I can improve, we also looked at areas I need to explain in more detail and created a better plan for the content and layout of my tutorial.

Friday

Technical Session
In today’s technical session I finished my shirt, now all I need to do is finish typing up my construction notes for my technical file. I am really pleased with my shirt as I have never made a shirt before it was helpful to practise all the techniques that I have been learning.

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BA1b- Week 4

15/1/2018

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Monday

​Globalisation Lecture
I really enjoyed todays lecture, as it was interesting to see just how many journeys how garments have probably been on before they get to us. I have done a post all about this lecture, so go and take a read.

Creative Pattern Cutting
This afternoon we were continuing on from last Monday with creating our own blocks from the mannequin. I had finished the bodice for today's session, so I was able to get on straight away, with deciding where the style lines should go, I found this really interesting, but I struggled a bit when we had do draw the style lines onto our paper patterns, but I am going to work on this next week and focus to make sure that I understand how to do it.

Tuesday

An Introduction to Fabrics
I am currently writing a post all about this lecture and the workshop that we did after and it should be posted in the next few days. I found it very interesting and I enjoyed learning all about the different properties fabrics have and how the fabrics are made, and I know I will now think very carefully about the type of material I am buying so that I can be sure it will give the desired look that I am after.
​
Technical Session
In today’s technical session I cut out all of pattern pieces in the fabric that I am going to make my technical shirt out of. I than stitched the plackets to the sleeves, this was a little bit challenging as you had to make sure they were the wright way round and stitched to the correct side of the sleeve as well as making sure that they looked neat and professional. I also topstitched the button stand an attached the yoke, when doing all of this I had to make sure that it was done to the best of my ability and to industry standard. I have never made a shirt before, so it is interesting to see exactly how they are made, even if they are a bit fiddly.

Wednesday

Lecture- Democratization in Fashion
I am currently writing a post all about today's lecture which will be posted over the next few days.

Thursday

Briefing- Employability and Mentorship
Today we had the briefing on our new project where we are going to be working with the third years to help them with their final collections. I am really excited about this project as I think that it is a good opportunity, it's also interesting to see what the third years are doing at the moment, I look forward to meeting my mentor on Monday and beginning to work with them on Thursday.

Friday 

Group Tutorial
I found todays tutorial very helpful as I could see what stage everyone else was at, as well as getting help with what I am doing. I have struggled a bit the past few weeks on deciding what should or shouldn't go into my sketchbook, but after today I feel like I understand everything a lot clearer, and I am ready to continue with my sketchbook work, so that I am ready to create designs by the end of next week. I am going to do a lot more sampling and experimentation to fill my sketchbook.
​
Technical Session.
Today’s session was all about attaching the sleeves and creating a shell. I finished all the tasks for today, although doing all the princess seams was a bit fiddly, the arm hole especially, but I am really pleased with the result and I am looking forward to finishing it next week.
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Globalisation

15/1/2018

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A term used to describe the way countries are becoming more interconnected both economically and culturally. It means that it is possible to produce a product anywhere, using resources from anywhere to be sold anywhere.
Picture
My Coat
Next
Made in china bought in Next, Norwich.
Shell- 100% polyester
Lining- 100% polyester
Professional dry clean only
Picture
Image From http://www.next.co.uk/xo52036s1#195394
Polyester is a type of plastic which is a formed by a chemical process from oil. My coat is knitted and will have gone through a lot of processes to get it to a wearable garment, from spinning, washing, sewing and knitting and many more. The more I read into it I have found how much of an environmental impact it has made, from the chemicals polluting the world, to the microplastics destroying the oceans, as a lot of polyester is made in China it will not have many air miles which is good but it still had to travel to Norwich from China, although polyester is also made in America and India, so it might of travelled from there to China and then to Norwich. To make it more sustainable they could use a natural material or use recycled plastic to make polyester, It could also be made more locally so that it doesn’t have to travel as far.
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BA1b Week 3

11/1/2018

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Monday

Pattern cutting on the mannequin workshop
Today's session was really interesting as I have never created my own blocks from a mannequin before, it was quite fiddly, but it was quite a simple process if you just followed the instructions. I need to convert the calico to paper by next week, and make it into a top, ready for the next stage.

Tuesday

Creative Pattern Cutting Workshop
​ I found today's session quite difficult, but I am pleased to have finished with a complete pattern, by the next session I will have completed the sample in calico. I attempted the bamboo shoot pattern from the pattern magic book as I am really pleased with the end result, I am going to see if I can incorporate it into my design work. 
​Technical Pattern Cutting Workshop- The Shirt
This afternoon was very productive as I finished all of my patterns and I am ready to focus on the cuff and placket next week. I really enjoyed learning how to pattern cut a shirt and I look forward to seeing the finished result.

Wednesday

Postmodernism Lecture
Today's lecture was really interesting and I am currently writing a post all about it which will be up over the next few days.

Thursday

Editorial Tutorial
I found todays tutorial very beneficial as it has helped me to refine my ideas for my editorial piece. I have decided to discuss fur and the arguments for and against. I have gained a better understanding of how I should lay it out so that it is more interesting to read, and I was given lots of pointers that I hadn't thought about, which has really helped me. I have done lots of research and planning and I can now begin to write my piece, ready for my next tutorial in a few weeks. I will continue to do more research as I go along about current issues, but I will also explore the history of fur and how it got so popular.
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The History of the Shirt

1/1/2018

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3000 BC
The oldest preserved garment in the world- a linen shirt from ancient Egypt.
Picture
Image from https://news.nationalgeographic.com/2016/02/160218-oldest-dress-egypt-tarkhan-archaeology/
Middle ages
During the middle ages the shirt was used as nightwear and underwear.
13th to 15th century
Detatchable sleeves came into style, they are swapped between outfits and one is given to a suitor as a sign of affection.
Post Renaissance
Womens shirts button to the left and mens to the right, women of status used to be dressed by servents and it was easier for them to button up from the left whereas men dressed themselves.
16th to 18th centuries
The introduction of the crop top, worn by men to over decorate a plain shirt or to cover up a shirt that needed washing.
Picture
Image from https://historyofeuropeanfashion.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/paperdoll1.jpg
Picture
Image from http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O137719/shirt-unknown/
18th Century
No longer worn as just underwear. The collar grew and became overly decorated with embroidery and lace. Shirts get longer and goes beyond the torso for men and the long tail is used for underwear. Long neck frills called jabots are a fashionable element of mens shirts.
​1827
Hannah Montague invents the detachable collar, so that she only had to wash the collar and the shirt separately when needed.
Mid 19th century
All dress shirt collars and cuffs are detachable during this period allowing them to be cleaned separately from the shirt.
1871
The first buttoned shirt was produced.
Picture
Image From https://crushvelvetclubdotcom.wordpress.com/2011/07/19/the-foundation-white-dress-shirt/
Picture
Image from http://www.blacktieguide.com/White_Tie/White_Tie_Shirt.htm
Late 19th to early 20th century
“Bosom Shirts” worn by thrifty men- the collar and shirt front were made of shirt fabric whilst the rest of the shirt is made of a cheaper fabric as it is covered by a jacket.
Early 20th century
With more people able to afford a washing machine, attached collards began replacing the detachable ones, it was easier and more affordable to wash the whole shirt.
20th century
High collars come from the Victorian era and conveyed formality.
World War 1
Modern shirts that button up the front became very popular, due to their practicality.
1920s
Pointed collars become more popular than the rounded collar.
1930s
Fixed collar shirts came back into fashion.
Picture
Image from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Army_during_World_War_I
Picture
Image from https://vintagedancer.com/1950s/1950s-tops-blouses/
World War 2
During the war dress shirts started being made from synthetic fabrics such as rayon, nylon and viscose mainly because wool was needed for military uniforms.
1950s
The nylon shirt came into style along with the short sleeve shirt.
1960s
​The chest pocket was introduced. The chest pocket makes its first appearance on mens shirts. 
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    About

    Hello, Eleanor here, I am currently at Norwich University of the Arts studying Fashion, please join me along my adventure.

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